The Pugwump Buildings
Mike writes: "I actually built 3 versions of the Pugwump building simultaneously, each with its own specific roofline and siding. I thought it was an interesting experiment."
Pugwump Building No. 1
"One was built using Northeastern board and batten O scale siding."
Pugwump Building No. 2
"One was built using cardstock with Campbell HO corrugated siding applied over the top."
Pugwump Building No. 3
"The last was done with 1/8" clapboard siding."
"My own personal favorite is the clapboard sided one with all the Hamm River boxes and baskets with the veggies inside."
Editor's Note: Here are some of the details that Mike painted up and included with Pugwump Building No. 3. They are made by Michael Yoakam of Hamm River Productions.
Look at the beautiful rust effect that Mike obtained on this metal roof. Here's how he did it:
"Okay making rusty metal roofs.......madmike's way:
Here are some comparison photo's of all three buildings:
"I think I would like to do something else in 3 versions of one basic design again as it was fun and a challenge at the same time."
- I use C C Crows/ Builders in Scale raised seam metal (
aluminum ) roofing in O scale 1/4" between seams and
some in HO 3/16 between seams.
- I use FERRIC CHLORIC ACID, or the circuit board
etchant cleaner from radio shack, may not be available
from them anymore ??
- First I soak 2-4 sheets of cheap paper towelling in water and
put them on a plywood sheet. Pour some etchant into a
PYREX type glass cooking dish........1/2" to 1" deep,
then put 'one end' of the raised seam roofing into the
acid and wait for it to fizz up , draw out and dip
immediately into a margarine container full of clean
water. Inspect it for shiney spots, if none insert
other end and then draw out and insert into water
- Now place the wet metal sheet onto the wet paper
towelling raised seam side down. Do the rest of your
metal sheeting same way.
- Now place a wooden piece of plywood board and a medium
heavy weight onto wet metal. Just let the whole thing
completely dry in the hot sun . When dry the show side
surface should have an almost calico cat look to it,
due to the paper towelling. You can cut this to fit
your structure as is with this look or you can
dullcoat it both sides and let dry, for a natural
- I have been just applying it onto the structure with
WELDBOND WHITE GLUE, or you can use walthers GOO. When
its in place and not movable anymore after a day get
some BRAGDONS RUST PIGMENTS or super fine rust powder
as he calls it and just brush it into the
metal........it has a cement in it that makes it
really stick when you brush it. I tend to use their
dark rust, seems to look as real as you can get. Make
sure you use something like an envelope under the
roofline to catch the excess, you do not want that
stuff anywhere but on the metal as it sticks and is real
hard to cover up on already done scenery.
- WORD OF CAUTION........the ferric chloric acid should
be used outdoors as THE FUMES will get into your nose
and you can smell it for days !!!!!!!!!! If wearing
eye glasses do not stand over the product as it will
eat the coatings from glasses. Best to do it at arms
length and the same height as the acid dish to avoid
rising fumes. Of course , never wear your Sunday best
to do this!!!!! madmike"
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This page updated March 16, 2005
Webpage © Lawrence Rickert
Photographs & Text © Michael Lynch